"Es la misma?" I ask one of the other volunteers, for clarification.
"Sí," she says. This green turtle has returned for the third time this night---the other two visits were failed nest attempts. While we wait until it's safe to approach the turtle, Armando explains to me the difference between loggerheads and green turtles. Loggerheads are bigger and more powerful, but green turtles are more graceful, he explains.
"I think of a football player when I think of the loggerhead," he says, "and I think of the green turtle as a ballerina."
Carefully, we crawl up behind the enormous green turtle, watching as she finishes the cavity for the eggs. She stops digging and her body heaves slightly. Armando leans forward with his red-filtered flashlight pointed at her tail. The first egg looks like a slimy ping-pong ball as it drops into the sand. I catch myself gasping. More eggs follow; I watch more than 30 before I stop counting. The turtle's body seems to pulse gently, almost in time to the waves behind us.
Female turtles enter a sort of trance when they lay their eggs; biologists believe that it's nature's way of ensuring that they don't stop midway through. Nothing can bother them at this point. Armando and a few other volunteers measure the turtle while she lays, and make note of any scars or other markings. She is 110 centimeters long.
It takes the turtle only 15 minutes to lay about 130 eggs. When she's done, she comes out of the trance-like state. We leave quietly so we don't bother her while she buries her eggs. I lie on a lawn chair and watch as she flings sand behind her with her flippers. At 3:30 a.m. we see her pulling herself up and out of her nest; we all sit up from our lawn chairs and watch.
She travels six or seven feet, and then stops. "Está cansada," says Armando. She's tired.
"Pobrina," says one of the volunteers. After a little rest, she lugs herself the rest of the way to the waves and, in a moment, she's gone.
We mark the nest with a sign that says "Nido de Tortuga---No tocar!" and then stumble home. By the time we make it back to the CEA office, it’s 4 a.m. We dump the sand out of our shoes and give kisses on the cheek goodnight.
Armando looks at me, his deep wrinkles more intense now that we're back under light. "It’s a good first night?” he asks.
"Sí," I say, trying to think of something more poetic to say in Spanish. "Especial," I say dumbly. "Muy especial."
This excerpt was translated by Rose Rosquillas. Thank you, Rose! |